A. Blowout - Blade blows/moves to outside of boardB. Bellied or Barrel Cut - Curved, not straightC. Angled Cut - not parallelD. Blade Binding / Burning in cutE. Cut surface too rough for efficient clean-up / smoothing2. Reasons for Poor ResultsA. Board not flat and squareB. Internal stresses in board due to growing conditionsC. Uneven moisture distribution from uneven drying or drying too fast (case hardened) in the initial lumber drying processD. Dull / dirty blade
E. Wrong type of bladea. Best Choice: Variable Pitch Blade - 1/2 or 3/4 Wideb. Skip tooth and hook tooth blades: 2nd best choicesc. Regular/standard tooth blade poor choiceF. Fence not parallel to direction of cutG. Blade Deflection: The force required to push workpiece into the saw blade causes the back edge to go into tension and the front edge into compression. When the front edge compresses too much, it tends to jump sideways, out of the plane of cut.a. It Causes blowout, twist/warpage, and bellied/barrel cut: classical bucklingb. Deflection theory formulas also were illustratedH. Poor sawdust evacuationI. Feed rate too fast or slowJ. Bandsaw wheels not aligned on same planeK. Under-powered saw bogs downL. Thrust Bearings (upper and lower) not properly setM. Improper use of featherboard(s) can pinch blade and allow board to wanderaway from fenceN. Fence not high enough - should be 6" - even if board is wider3. Good Blade Handling PracticesA. Always wear glovesB. Record date of blade installation such as blade label taped to sawC. Store blades in original packaging or cut label ID info from blade and tie to coiled bladeD. Keep blade clean and free of accumulated pitchE. With saw running, round off back edge of blade with blade tuning stone or finishing stoneSparks will fly so clean dust on inside and around saw!4. Fence Design and Set-upA. Curved or Point StyleB. Flat Style - Either style can be shop madeC. Height - 6" Max usually sufficientD. Set-up Fence is perpendicular to table and parallel to blade - Important!Use 12" square and flashlight to ensure accuracy5. Adjusting Blade to Fit FenceA. Theoretically, tracking of the saw blade on the wheels can be tweaked to cause the line of cut to rotate inward (toed-in) or outward (toed-out)B. If done properly, this tweaking will result in the blade cutting parallel to axle of the wheel, and thus parallel to the miter slotC. Proper tracking means aligning the back of the blade's gullet in center of the tire.This will, again theoretically, orient the the blade parallel to axle of wheel, not toed-inor toed-out; resulting in a cut parallel to the miter slotD. You can then set the fence parallel to the miter slot to get a smooth, flawless cut6. Adjust Fence to Fit the BladeA. Band Saw blades are not all the same, and can even appear to have amind or their ownB. Determine which way your blade wants to cut - You may need to alignthe fence with that direction7. SafetyA. Wear safety glasses and consider hearing protectionB. Keep fingers 2'' from blade and use push sticks and featherboardsC. If free of burrs, back edge of blade will not hurt youD. Workpiece can also be pulled through cutWe greatly appreciate the time and effort Jim put intothis excellent and educational presentation !
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